“Wine is sunlight, held together by water!” – Galileo Gallile

“Wine is bottled poetry.” – Robert Louis Stevenson

“Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine, so that I may wet my mind and say something clever.”             - Aristophanes

“In victory, you deserve champagne, in defeat, you need it.” – Napoleon Bonaparte

“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.” – Ernest Hemingway

“Good wine is a necessity of life for me.” – Thomas Jefferson

“Compromises are for relationships, not wine.” – Sir Robert Scott Caywood

We’ve all been a similar situation before: you are going to visit some friends for dinner and they asked that you bring the wine. Or perhaps it happens this way: you are at a restaurant with your boss or clients and need to select a bottle for everyone’s meal. All of a sudden you are confronted with hundreds of different wine varieties and blends, none of which you recognize. The pressure is on – a bad or wrong wine can make you look ignorant. Ahhh! What to do?

I have been asked to write on this topic on several occasions, but have stayed away from it for the same reason everyone else has. How am I to know what you like? The answer, of course, is that everyone is different. Therefore, I will not attempt to describe every wine in the world. Instead, I thought that it would be helpful to explain what certain information on the label means. Knowing this will help you to better understand what you like and to then order wine accordingly.

As the global wine industry continues to grow, and as average consumers gains access to more wines from different regions, the choices will only broaden and become more intimidating. To complicate things further, specific wines vary from year to year. The United States approves and recognizes over 300 different grape varietals, grown in over 160 distinct regions. American growers are free to plant whichever varietal they like on any piece of soil, and then combine them in the bottle. It is not uncommon to see blends of Tempranillo and Sangiovese, or Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And who knows – maybe all four will be bottled together some day. My opinion on this matter is similar to many Americans – do whatever to make the best wine possible.

In the past twenty years, Americans have seen a series of new wine labeling laws passed – some modeled after European laws, but many pioneered as we learn more about our vast landscape. The U.S. is a newly planted country (less than 200 years), with new regions being discovered all the time. Because some have developed reputations faster than others, laws are important to protect against infringers upon this reputation.

It is not surprising that the first U.S. wine region to be protected is also its most famous and highly regarded – Napa Valley. To declare Napa Valley on the label, law now mandates that 85% of the juice in the bottle must be from within Napa’s boundaries. This should be obvious, but wines and wineries from other regions used to put the word “Napa” on the label as a marketing tool. Napa has a good reputation, so the average consumer in a store might read it and think “Oh! Napa, it must be good,” then buy it, when the reality was that the wine was from nowhere near Napa. Good Cabernet grapes from Napa Valley can sell for as much as $2500 per ton, while the same grape from the central Valley of California can sell for as little as $180 a ton. Napa vintners felt that they were being taken advantage of, hence the law. Now Sonoma is in the courts to pass comparable rules.

California pioneered labeling wines with the type of grape in the 1960’s. To list the type of grape on the bottle (e.g. – chardonnay, merlot, etc…), 75% of the wine in the bottle must be of that varietal. This might seem unusual to list, as most old world countries value regions more than grape types, and will expect the consumer to know the varietal allowed by law. Blends that are not 75% of any single varietal are listed as “Table Wines.” This term, unfortunately, has a negative connotation for many consumers, as many of America’s best wines are blends. To combat this, American winemakers are allowed to name their wines in any way they choose, and often come up with colorful names such as Red Truck or Conundrum for example. The Meritage Society was also created to promote wines composed of only the Bordeaux Varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Malbec.) For a fee, winemakers may place the words “Meritage Wine” on the bottle, which has become more recognizable in the past decade.

This is part of a rule known as the 75-85-95 percent rule. The rest of the rule requires that 85% must be of a single vintage to list the year on the bottle. Finally, to list the vineyard (e.g. Peter’s Vineyard), 95% must be from that specific vineyard. A small percentage from other areas can be blended in, but most vineyard designates are usually 100%. The specificity of the region listed is often an indication of a better quality wine.

Often bottles will advertise the words “Estate Wine” on the label. This means that 100% of the grapes were grown on the winery’s property and that the resulting wine was 100% produced at its facility. This is often a stamp of quality as the winery has had complete control of its product.

Another phrase often added to labels, which I feel is grossly misunderstood, is the term “Reserve” or “Reserve Wine.” In other countries, for example Spain, the word has exact parameters, such as grape variety and yield per acre, time in oak barrels, and amount of time spent cellared before the winery releases the finished wine. I was surprised to find that in the United States, there have never been any such laws in place. “Reserve Wines” of course signify a higher level of quality, but how one achieves this level is left completely up to the winery. It could be as simple as tasting wine out of ten barrels, and then labeling the barrel that tastes the best with reserve. The only rule is that for a winery to create a reserve wine, a non-reserve wine must be produced as well. Otherwise, every winery would make only reserve wines and the term would lose all meaning.

As far as graphics go, wineries realize how directly related the look of the label is to wine sales. Wine labels are basically broken up into two main categories. Fun labels, often with colorful cartoons or humorous names, are geared toward the younger or more unassuming crowd. Labels depicting animals have been proven to sell better. The other type is usually more serious – often printed in calligraphy, and sometimes with a black-and-white lithograph of the estate grounds or winery. This “refined” look might be geared toward older, or more established consumers.

Whichever route the winery chooses for the face of its wine, it needs to be original, memorable and un-cluttered. Information on nuances, blend percentages, winery history, bar codes, or anecdotes are often moved to the back label. One thing unique to American labeling is the Surgeon General’s warning – which must be placed on any alcoholic beverage and states that pregnant women should not drink and not to operate a car after drinking. This warning was established in 1989, and frees American companies from being held liable in the case of an accident. A “contains sulfites” warning safeguards against allergic reactions.

At this point, you might ask yourself – how is this going to help me in the supermarket or wine store surrounded by a thousand different brands of wine? The answer that is the more you, as the consumer can determine about the wine by looking at its label, the more sure you can be about making a sound choice. It all comes down to helping you catalogue your experience. For example, you might buy a Syrah from the Central Coast of California and love it. Remember that. Then the next time you visit a store you can look for different varietals made by the same producer, for another Syrah, or for another wine from the Central Coast. The more you experience different types of wine, the more you will increase your chances of recognizing something on a restaurant list. The idea here is to learn what you like – that’s also half the fun!

Virginia boasts 193 wineries, while the most visited winery in America is North Carolina’s Biltmore. Vines grow on the steep volcanic slopes on Maui, in the Hills west of Austin, and on the southern plains of New Jersey. New Mexico makes a fantastic sparkling wine. There are notable vineyards in New York, Washington, Oregon, Kentucky, and Ohio.

Different climatic conditions and soil types lead to identifiable characteristics in  finished wine.  When these wines are recognized as being unique, the State can grant it status as an American Viticultural Area (AVA).  There are currently 187 AVA’s across the United States.

You don’t have to visit California or France to savor wine country.  Where ever you live, there is probably a winery near you!

1. Powdery Mildew (oidium): This is the only fungus that can cause damage this time of year in California. It particularly affects flowers, small berries and shaded leaves. This can lead to Coulure, or “shatter” – meaning that some grapes fail to develop. If you have ever bought table grapes to eat and seen a little undeveloped one in the middle, that is a result of coulure. Sometimes it can be as high as 50 percent.

2. Millerandage: Grape clusters containing berries of different size and maturity.

3. Over-vigorous vines: Rain can re-direct the vines focus onto producing vegetation (branches and leaves) instead of the grapes. In the end, it can affect quality.

4. “Other” growth: Rain causes weeds and undesirable plants to grow, which costs money and time for the vineyard owner to remove it.

All of these problems are increased with if the adverse weather is prolonged. Luckily, today is the only day of rain in the forecast, and we are looking at temperatures in the low 90’s by the weekend. This should dry the vines and keep molds and fungus down. Will this affect the finished product – probably not, but only time will tell…

First a little about its history; for a vine that is so synonymous with California, it is interesting to note that the true origins of Zinfandel have only come to light in the past six years. What we did know was that it appeared on the coast of New York around 1822. It is possible that the importer kept the name of these mysterious vine-cuttings a secret, or perhaps didn’t know them. By 1852, it had reached the west coast, where it often became the drink of choice for the thousands of miners following the discovery of gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills. The completion of the Great Pacific Railroad, coupled with the an economic boom after the Civil War ended, created a huge demand for California wines. Zinfandel quickly became the most popular and requested wine in America. Vineyards were planted as “field blends”, often mixing in a few vines of Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, or other varietals. Many of the vineyards from this time are still field blends, meaning that many Old-Vine Zins are not actually 100% Zinfandel.

When alcohol became illegal during Prohibition (from 1919 until 1933), Zinfandel remained in high demand as it was used for sacramental wines in churches across the country. It was also popular among home winemakers, who were allowed to buy the raw grapes and make wine at home. During the 1920’s, the dreaded Phylloxera louse swept through California from the south, killing every grapevine in its path. Concerned and fearful growers replanted their vineyards using the resistant St. George rootstock and thus evaded the epidemic. This replanting accounts for the large number of old Zinfandel vines in the 80-90 year age that remain today. But what constitutes old? The United States has never had restrictions governing the use of this word, so Zinfandels using the selling point “Old-Vine” on their bottle could be as young as thirty years of age. While this might be considered old for the grower who planted them in his youth, his neighbor might have vines three or four times that age.

Many people today associate Zinfandel with “White-Zinfandel”, so I feel that I should dedicate a least one paragraph to explain the differences. In 1975, Sutter Home winery experienced a stuck fermentation with a crop, meaning that not all of the sugar in the grape juice was converted into alcohol. It was then set aside, so that they could focus on other batches coming in. Two weeks later, it was tasted and found to be very easy to drink, so it was put on the market. It subsequently out-sold all of Sutter Home’s other wines, so the next year thousands of inexpensive cases flooded the market. Tens of thousands of acres of Zinfandel now grow in the Central Valley, the United States largest wine region. It is stripped of color and flavor, before Muscat and Reisling are blended in to provide aromatics. While many Zin-purists will denounce white-zin, it is important to note the role it has played in transforming the U.S. from the beer drinking country we all knew, to make wine the most popular alcoholic drink in America.

At the other extreme, we are now seeing hundreds of Zinfandels coming out of the Sierra Nevada foothills, a region with one of the longest histories of grape growing. Because of the severe heat (often 110 degrees or over) for a large part of the growing season, some of these wines have alcohol levels exceeding 17%, blocking out all other flavors. These high alcohol wines, and white zinfandel at the other extreme, show the many personalities this versatile grape can take. In a State that boasts literally hundreds of Zinfandel producers, how would I find producers that showcase the very best of my new favorite varietal?

I’ve never had a shortage of friends who like to go wine-tasting, so on a beautiful Saturday in June, a couple friends and I jumped in my truck for a day away from our busy city lives. Years of running a wine tour company and a lifetime of drinking wine have led me to meet several producers, whom I would interview while my companions enjoyed their tasting rooms.

My first stop of the day was Passalacqua Winery in the Dry Creek Valley. This sub-region of Sonoma is known for having the densest concentration of old-vine Zinfandel in the world, with several vineyards over 120 years old! The winery is located on a small knoll in the center of the 16-mile long valley, and the morning sun was just beginning to peak over the hills as I sat down with the owner and winemaker, Jason Passalacqua. One of the first things he told me was that his family had come over-seas from Genova in 1865. Now four generations and three wineries later, Passalacqua produces six distinct Zinfandels, ranging from the light and spicy Russian River Zinfandel to the rich and jammy Old-Vine Zin. What they all have in common, however, is a black pepper spice; a result of the gravel and red clay soil mixture referred to as Dry Creek Conglomerate.

Jason also produces a Primitivo, which he explains is more rot-resistant to the fog so common near the Californian coast. Primitivo di Gioia, which grows in Puglia was proven to be a 99% match to Zinfandel. The main differences lie in cluster size, berry size and spacing, and vine vigor. Zinfandel was thought to have come from Italy in the past, and Italian producers of Primitivo realized that it might sell better in the U.S. under the Zinfandel name. The American government was quick to trademark the name, and to this day, Zinfandel can only come from the United States.

From Passalacqua, which lies on the valley floor, I took highway 128, which winds up into the hills toward Napa Valley. I was to visit Storybook Mountain Vineyards; one of the most beautiful properties I’ve ever encountered, to chat with Jerry Seps, owner and the founder of ZAP. Once a European history professor at Stanford University, he purchased 120 acres on the Napa/Sonoma border after the Handley fire burnt everything to the ground in the mid-1960’s.

The thermometer in my truck read 94º, but in the shade of a 200 year-old Oak tree, and with a nearly constant breeze, we sat comfortably for over an hour. If anyone knows his property well, it’s Jerry Seps: Since planting his first Zinfandel over 30 years ago, Jerry has identified 95 separate zones within his property. Storybook now makes 5 different Zins, including a one named Antaeus, which is mostly Zinfandel, mixed with Bordeaux varietals (what would the French think of this?) and a Zin Gris, a dry rosé reminiscent of something from Provence. When asked about this later wine and what his thoughts are of White Zinfandel, Jerry just smiles at me and exclaims “well, it’s better than wine coolers!” It may not be the highest and best use of the grape, but he does bring up another good point: “it did save many of the old Zinfandel vineyards from being torn up.”

The majority of the Storybook property faces east, keeping the vines out of the direct sun during the hottest part of the day. This, along with a higher elevation, the wind, and pruning techniques Jerry has been experimenting with for almost half his life have created what he believes to be a greater, fresher wine with more longevity. I definitely wouldn’t disagree with that statement, as I noticed a common thread of depth and refined elegance throughout everything I tasted under that ancient oak…

Zinfandel, as with all other wine-producing vines takes four years to yield a quality crop. Grapes produced before this are simply cut off early in the season, in an attempt to re-focus the plants energy toward establishing its roots system. At the eight-year mark, the quality increases again. The so-called “sweet spot”, or best time in terms of quality and quantity is reached at twenty to thirty years of age. After this mark, crop yields will decrease dramatically, as the vine makes fewer and fewer bunches with each subsequent season, although the juice will become more highly concentrated. The vine really starts to struggle at the 110-year mark, yielding only one or two bunches in a season, so at this stage the grower must decide whether to keep his diminishing crop, or to replant altogether.

A few years ago in the town of Oakville, located in the center of the Napa Valley, the Zinfandel Heritage Vineyard was planted. Over ninety different rare and famous Zinfandel clones were brought in from all over the State to be monitored and studied in one location. The idea was to better comprehend how varieties respond to heat and cold, as well as wetter and dryer climates. Although this experiment is far from over, we are now much closer to understanding the importance of matching soil type, rot resistance, and other climatic factors, to the clone best suited for a specific location. Another reason for this study is to produce a superior grape, with a slightly smaller berry size, resulting in a more intense and concentrated wine.

It was now mid-afternoon, and I still had one more winery to visit. I traveled down the hill into the northern Napa Valley to see a friend of mine, Kirk Venge. Kirk produces about a thousand cases of a Zinfandel blend named Scout’s Honor, which I have personally enjoyed for years. Many people are surprised to find that this name does not have any correlation to the Boy Scouts of America, but instead is a reference to the original winery dog, a late golden retriever named Scout. The government states that for any wine to be labeled by its varietal name (such as Merlot or Cabernet), at least 75% must be made from that grape. Otherwise, they must go by the name table wine. Because many people associate “table wine” as inferior, many wineries will come up with alternative names, and as we know, many of the best wines to come out of any region are often blends.

The Scouts Honor blend will differ from year to year, but is usually blended with Petite Sirah, and an older and much less common varietal named Charbono. If ripeness and youthful exuberance is what you are looking for in your wine, Scout’s honor will not disappoint. These grapes are grown on the valley floor and western slopes, which exposes them to a hotter day with more direct sun, and although the label on the bottle reads 15.3% alcohol, the wine is beautifully balanced and does not taste “hot”.

I sat down with Kirk in his small one-room office surrounded by an eight-acre vineyard of young Zinfandel vines to learn what makes this grape different from others. Kirk believes that the best way to grow Zinfandel is the original way – head trained on wooden posts with no wires and with the St. George Rootstock mentioned earlier. He explains that although production is slightly easier once at the winery, Zinfandel in the vineyard can be subject to a myriad of problems. Fruit can be brought in with cracked skins, the crop can be over-ripe, or individual berries can be shriveled within the bunch, bringing up the average brix levels (sugars in the grape). Zinfandel is also notorious as an uneven ripener, always a common subject among producers. Sugar levels within a single cluster of Zinfandel grapes can vary as much as 35%. If a wine-maker was to handpick all of the super-ripe red berries from the bunch, it would be possible to make a wine with almost 20% alcohol!

In 2001, nine old grapevines of a long forgotten variety were discovered in a single vineyard in Croatia. These last survivors, named Crljanek Kastelanski, were only a few years from being torn up and the vineyard replanted. They were brought in for DNA testing and found to be a 100% match to Zinfandel! Since then, a heritage vineyard has been created to save these, as well as several other native Croatian species from being lost forever. American Zinfandel, in almost two hundred years away from it original home, has adapted and mutated to fit California’s climate and soil types. However, I cannot stress enough the importance of finding the original strains, which could very possibly be used to create new hybrids and clones. Furthermore, I would love to see entire vineyards replanted with this historic grape, and I can only hope to see Croatian Crljanek on our store shelves one day.

To learn the history of Zinfandel is to learn the very history of our great State. Wines made from the Zinfandel grape have had to evolve in order to meet the ever-changing tastes of it consumers. It is exactly this ability to adapt that has kept it on our tables and close to our hearts. Zinfandel is poised to grab the spotlight once again and Californians couldn’t be happier.