Sixty miles north of San Francisco, the Coastal Mountains extend into the sky from the violent ocean below. Drops from this sea are carried, in the form of fog, over hilly terrain and deposit enough water on the forested slopes to support the tallest trees in the world, the coastal redwood. Slicing its way over this almost impassable terrain is the Russian River. During its 110 mile journey, the river travels through five distinct weather zones, eventually returning into the sea where it started. This has been so for millions of years.
In the world of wine, several famous rivers have governed the land: the Rhine, the Loire, the Douro, the Saône; the Russian River can be included in this company. Climates vary so much that there can be a sixty-degree difference from beginning to end. This results in an opportunity for a wide rane of grapes: the Bordeaux varieties are grown in the inland Alexander Valley, and Rhone Varietals along “The Crucible,” while Burgundian grapes dominate “The Middle Reach.”
The Russian River dominates the northern end of the Sonoma American Viticultural Area (AVA). Sonoma was the birthplace of American fine winemaking, and although Napa Valley gained prominence during the fine wine resurgence of the 1960’s, Sonoma is on the rise to dominance once again, due to the broader range of varietals that can be planted here. Another is Sonoma’s sheer size – and much of it is still unexplored.
The Russian River’s first human inhabitants were the Pomo Indians, who aptly named the river “Shabakai” meaning long snake. The Pomo fished Salmon during the winter and hunted the plentiful deer and elk. California was a wild place then, but this was soon to change. In the race to claim California, Spain established several missions running up the coast, the northernmost being San Francisco Solano about twenty-five miles distant. In an effort not to let the Spanish any farther up the coast, the Russians established Fort Ross on the mouth of the river. They hoped that California would be warmer and dryer than Alaska. They lived peacefully with the natives, as it is evidenced that there were several marriages during the Russians stay, as well as several Russians who learnt the Pomo language (certainly uncharacteristic of the Spanish).
While California is certainly dryer than Alaska, the coast still gets over eighty inches (and often over 100 inches) of rain a year. The Russians tried to plant crops, but the ground never saw the sun in the summer because of the fog and came down in a series of mudslides during the winter. Moreover, during the winter months the river becomes a raging torrent, which changes course every year, destroying everything in its path. This lack of sustainability, coupled with the growing Spanish presence, caused the Russians to retreat north in 1842. A few Russians stayed and journeyed inland, but aside from that, the rivers’ name is about all that remains from that era.
The Spanish never acknowledged the Russians claim to the land. After Mexico won her independence from Spain, the new Mexican government sent Cyrus Alexander and Captain Henry Delano Fitch north to find land fit for a cattle ranch. These were the first permanent settlers and Cyrus Alexander gave his name to Alexander Valley. California changed hands once again, this time becoming part of the United States as thousands of immigrants started arriving, searching for gold. When these newcomers failed to find this elusive metal, they searched for suitable land for farming. The Russian River’s proximity to San Francisco made it a prime choice. Additionally, settlers noticed the red volcanic dirt, which has been recognized as good soil for grapes since the Roman era. A town was established a few years later by the name of Healdsburg, which became the little wine capital for the region.
140 year old vines
Today, the main varietal grown in the Alexander Valley region is Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines tend to be softer and simpler than their Napa counterparts. Equating it to the Bordeaux region, one could say that Alexander Valley is the St. Julien of the north coast while Napa is the Pauillac. This however, has not always been the case; up until thirty years ago, Zinfandel was king. As San Francisco grew exponentially following the gold rush of 1849, large amounts of wine were needed to support the population, since it was isolated from the rest of the country. Vineyards were planted with “field blends” of more that one type of grape. The big seller was Claret, which basically meant the wine was dry, red and full-bodied. Other popular varietals of the day were Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, and Nebbiolo. Many of the vineyards from this time are still field blends, meaning that many Sonoma Old-Vine Zins are not actually 100% Zinfandel.
By the 1880’s, the United States was experiencing a post civil-war boom, and now that there was a railroad connecting California with the populated east coast, the demand for grapes and wine was greater than ever. Many Italians arrived at this time, and huge portions of the Russian River were settled. Italian immigrants sent home letters describing a beautiful river and countryside which reminded them of the hills of northern Italy. Everyone lived in relative prosperity until 1919, with the onset of prohibition. With alcohol now illegal, many growers went bankrupt and moved out. When prohibition ended in 1933, things were slow to start up again, as Americans leaned toward beer and spirits. During the 1960’s, there was a major shift in the wines people drank. The big gallon jugs of Claret went out of style, and were replaced with single varietal 750ml bottles.
Around this time, it was discovered that Burgundian grapes, particularly Pinot Noir, thrived in the valley. Vines were planted in the rich deposits of gravel immediately adjacent to the river, which insured excellent drainage. Cool climates allow Pinot Noir to express its delicacy and terroir, and the majority of California’s top Pinot comes from the confines of the Russian River Valley. The region has long had a Burgundian tradition of vineyard designate bottlings (one grower selling grapes to one or more wine-maker, who in turn puts the source of the fruit on the bottle).
Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grapes varieties known and has been grown for at least 2,000 years. Because of its long history, it has had more time for clones to develop. There are currently over 100 different types of this grape. Several of them were developed in the town of Dijon, France. During the early 1980’s, the word spread that these Dijon Clones existed, and several Californians went to France and came back with budwood, which could be used to grow new vineyards. Clones 5, 115, and 777 as well as Pommard clones were especially valued as they grew the best in California. The onging debate is whether these single clones make the best wine, or if the old selections are superior.
As Pinot Noir reflects the terroir, or conditions it was grown in, we have seen two distinct styles emerge over the past decade. One is the more muscular, darker style, which can grow in a wider set of climates. The average Brix levels (% of sugar when the grapes are picked) when making this style has risen almost 10% in the past decade in the pursuit of a richer, riper wine. The other style is more elegant and refined, approaching the Pinot houses of Burgundy. These wines are characterized by higher acidity and lower alcohol, with more delicate and mineral nuances. Often wineries in the region will make at least one of each, in an attempt to satisfy peoples’ different tastes.
It is interesting to look at is how two different wines made using grapes from the same source can taste completely different. Pinot Noir needs a long hang-time, and very moderate temperatures. If it is too hot, the resulting wine will have too much alcohol and low phelnolics (aroma and flavor compounds that give wine its complex flavors). If the weather is too cold, the wine takes on an unripe green vegetable flavor (think asparagus). One thing is certain, ten years ago American winemakers struggled with Pinot Noir, often citing that it was the most difficult grape to grow. Today, it is the most exiting and upcoming grape, with the best yet to come.
